Welcome, friends! This is the TAUKO Magazine No.16 Digital, a gift to our print subscribers<3
#16 Architecture
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What if getting dressed felt like stepping into a building you love?
TAUKO No.16 explores the fascinating shared language between fashion and architecture: garments that are precise, sculptural, and bold enough to hold their own shape. These are clothes that build space around the body, transforming how we move through the world.
But there’s also a quieter story which is getting a spotlight in this issue: one of mending, caring, and creating with intention. Learning from restoration of architectural elements, we look at how the idea of care – of tending to what already exists – can be a design principle in its own right. The articles and essays invite us to see maintenance and mending as the core of creativity.
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Designs/Patterns:
Columns, Articles, and Essays:
The Spaces We Carry: Architecture and Clothing
Words by Jenni Reuter
Photography by Marc Goodwin, Juha Ilonen, and Sala Mboup
Clothing, like architecture, shapes our lives and carries stories of time and memory. The urgent environmental cost of fast fashion and construction’s wasteful cycles calls for a shift toward repair, reuse, and mindful care. A future where we cherish what we have, embracing continuity over constant consumption, is possible. This inspiring view invites us to rethink how we relate to the spaces and garments that surround us, building a more sustainable and meaningful world.
Clothing and Identity
Words and photography by Monisola Omotoso
Monisola Omotoso transforms clothing into a powerful expression of identity, where vintage menswear becomes armor and memory. Her wardrobe, filled with reimagined inherited pieces, reflects an evolving self shaped by craftsmanship and emotion. Inspired by Balenciaga, she sculpts fabric into abstract, unexpected forms that challenge tradition. With intuitive design and attention to detail, her process feels almost meditative and deeply personal. This is more than fashion—it’s a conversation and a bold exploration of how clothing can embody strength and selfhood.
Book Reviews
Words by Mila Moisio
Photography by Laura Oja
Discover three vibrant new titles that celebrate the art, history, and future of making by hand. Proud South Craft is a richly curated tribute to tactile creativity, uniting diverse makers through materials and gestures beyond borders or hierarchies. Upcycle by Annie Phillips brings joyful, pastel-hued energy to sewing and mending, making repair an act of care and personal expression. Meanwhile, The Book of Printed Fabrics offers a sweeping, visually stunning journey through centuries of European textile history, rooted in the archives of France’s Musée de l’Impression sur Étoffes.
Building Garments: The Art and Architecture of Pattern-Making
Words and photography by Minna Konttijärvi
Minna Konttijärvi (@behind_shapesoffabric) takes us into the world of pattern-making, where flat shapes become three-dimensional garments through a mix of precision and creativity. Known as the architects of fashion, pattern-makers balance numbers, structure, and materials to bring designs to life. Inspired by Japanese techniques, Minna combines traditional methods with experimental approaches to create sculptural, textured pieces. Her hands-on process turns pattern-making into an art form full of rhythm and geometry. This glimpse behind the scenes invites readers to see fashion as a dynamic blend of craftsmanship and imagination.
Tools for Transformation: On the Beauty of Adapting What We Wear and Where We Live
Words by Thekla Weisskopf
Photography by Tuomas Uusheimo, Mikko Raskinen, and Esa Kapila /All photos courtesy of Aalto University
Thekla Weisskopf explores how the acts of mending clothes and renovating architecture can serve as powerful tools for sustainable design. Drawing from her experiences in Helsinki, Berlin, and at Aalto University, she highlights how adaptation—not just innovation—can foster creativity. Whether reworking a garment or updating a lecture hall, transformation becomes a dialogue between past and present. The article challenges the throwaway culture of fashion and construction, advocating instead for care, maintenance, and thoughtful reuse. With vivid examples and personal insight, Weisskopf invites us to see design as an ongoing process of renewal and connection.
NEW digital features:
All new PDF patterns include 3D roundtable videos
Design previews
Explore the captivating world of No.16 with exclusive design previews below. Revel in detailed design descriptions, fabric recommendations, and requirements. For a richer experience, subscribe to the full digital version, unlocking the ability to download the complete package with patterns, sewing instructions and exclusive content for each design.
SPIRAL
by Christelle Ledauphin / @ceelle31
#TAUKOspiral
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The SPIRAL design includes dress and blouse variations with wavy pintucks at the front and back for a sense of movement and detail. The pintucks can be pressed flat for a sleek look or cross-stitched for a sculptural effect. Delicate pintucks on the cuffs add a refined touch, while a small double yoke shapes the shoulders. You’ll learn pintuck techniques that will bring unique character to your handmade pieces. A slit at the back neckline, closed with a hook or button, makes dressing easy. Choose between blouse and dress lengths – the dress version also includes side seam pockets for everyday practicality.
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Choose a light to medium-light woven fabric such as batiste, crêpe, voile, or any other lightweight cotton. Poplins are also a great choice, as they help maintain the structure of the pintucks. For best results, opt for fabrics that are not too drapey — this will make it much easier to prepare and sew the tucks.
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For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Blouse fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 75.6 (77.2, 78.4, 80, 81.5) (85.5, 88.6, 90.2, 91.4)" / 192 (196, 199, 203, 207) (217, 225, 229, 232) cm
Dress fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 95.3 (100, 100.4, 105.2, 108.7) (117.4, 117.8, 119.3, 122.1)" / 242 (254, 255, 267, 276) (298, 299, 303, 310) cmInterfacing for the blouse and dress versions:
width 35.4"/90 cm, length 4"/10 cm
CENTREFOLD
by Lara Eichwede / @1000stoff
#TAUKOcentrefold
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The CENTREFOLD shirt is a refined, versatile garment that invites personal interpretation. With clean lines and a minimalist cut, this design can be sewn in a variety of fabrics, from sporty everyday cottons to elegant silk blends. The facings offer the perfect opportunity for playful contrasts through colour blocking or a sleek look when sewn in a single hue. The sleeves can be made with facings or by folding the slits and hems.
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Use medium-weight stretchy fabrics or knits. You can also choose a woven fabric, as the shirt has a fairly loose fit.
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For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Shirt fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 38.2 (45.3, 46.1, 47.3, 50) (52, 67.4, 70.1, 72.5)" / 97 (115, 117, 120, 127) (132, 171, 178, 184) cmFacing fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 15.8 (17, 17, 17.4, 18.2) (20.9, 21.7, 22.1, 25.2)" / 40 (43, 43, 44, 46) (53, 55, 56, 64) cmInterfacing (optional):
width 35.4"/90 cm, length 18.2 (18.6, 18.9, 19.7, 24.1) (30.8, 31.9, 33.1, 37.5)" / 46 (47, 48, 50, 61) (78, 81, 84, 95) cm
MMA MORENA
by Phuti Tshehle / @little_brown_paper/
#TAUKOmmamorena
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MMA MORENA, the mother of the king, is a shirt-style button-up with a feminine, fitted silhouette. Available in blouse and dress lengths, it features a sculptural collar lapel design created by clever folding that gives the neckline a striking, three-dimensional architectural effect. Waist darts at the front and back enhance the tailored fit, although they can be omitted for a more relaxed, airy look. The dress version has practical side seam pockets. The sleeves are finished with an elegant vanishing detail that complements the folded collar lapel – both of which are much easier to sew than they look! A button-up front and stylish side slits complete the look, making MMA MORENA both distinctive and wearable.
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Choose medium-weight woven fabrics such as cotton, linen, or hemp. Poplin, sateen, or taffeta are excellent options to highlight the structure of the vanishing details.
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For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Fabric for the blouse version:
width 55"/140 cm, length 54.8 (57.5, 58.7, 59.5, 74.1) (75.6, 76.8, 81.2, 82.3)" / 139 (146, 149, 151, 188) (192, 195, 206, 209) cmInterfacing for the blouse version: width 35.4"/90 cm, length 31.5"/80 cm
Fabric for the dress version:
width 55"/140 cm, length 72.9 (88.6, 89.8, 90.6, 112.3) (113.8, 115.4, 118.9, 126)" / 185 (225, 228, 230, 285) (289, 293, 302, 320) cmInterfacing for the dress version:
width 35.4"/90 cm, length 50.4"/128 cm
HIUTALE
by Mila Moisio / @mila.moisio
#TAUKOhiutale
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The HIUTALE dress is a jersey garment that wears like a fine piece of tailoring. A gently raised neckline gives it a subtle but distinctive finish, while a centre‑back seam sculpts the silhouette. A concealed construction keeps the exterior impeccably smooth. Clean, knee‑skimming lines end in subtle sleeve slits for a touch of elegance. Opt for hand-sewn hems and no topstitching to interfere with the smooth surface of the design.
The pattern offers a sleeveless and a 3/4‑sleeve option, and the original knee length can be extended to midi or maxi. You can also move the hem slits from the side seams to the back. Though beginner‑friendly, HIUTALE invites you to linger over crisp topstitching and neat facings, rewarding that extra care with a dress that carries the polish of a woven sheath: sleek on the outside, cleverly engineered on the inside.
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Choose medium to heavy-weight knits for your dress. Hemp, cotton, and merino wool all work well and provide different looks. Note that the neckline is quite tight, so fabrics with a bit of stretch will work best.
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For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
3/4-sleeve dress fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 65.8 (65.8, 67, 71.3, 81.2) (101.2, 102.8, 104.4, 106.3)" / 167 (167, 170, 181, 206) (257, 261, 265, 270) cmSleeveless dress fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 52.4 (53.2, 54, 57.9, 69.7) (82.3, 83.5, 84.7, 86.7)" / 133 (135, 137, 147, 177) (209, 212, 215, 220) cmInterfacing:
width 35.4"/90 cm, length 11.8"/30 cm
KIRSTI
by Stefanie Kroth / @stefanie_kroth
#TAUKOkirsti
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KIRSTI is an easy-to-sew asymmetrical skirt with a beautiful silhouette featuring a side godet and pleats. You can make it in two lengths – mini or midi – or adjust the length to suit you. The skirt has a zip at the side and two darts at the back for a flattering shape that is effortless to wear.
As a zero-waste pattern, the cutting layout may look unconventional, but each piece is cleverly nested to eliminate waste, so there are no fabric scraps. To accommodate a wide range of sizes, the pattern pieces are arranged in rectangles, making them easy to place on your fabric.
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Use medium-weight woven fabrics. Depending on the texture and weight of your fabric, you can achieve different effects: sculptural and three-dimensional, or swinging and flowing. You can also use interfacing to stabilize the waistband.
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For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Skirt fabric for short version:
width 55"/140 cm, length 41 (41, 41, 41, 41) (41, 44.1, 44.1, 44.1)" / 104 (104, 104, 104, 104) (104, 112, 112, 112) cmSkirt fabric for long version:
width 55"/140 cm, length 65.4"/166 cmInterfacing for both versions:
width 35.4"/90 cm, length 7.9"/20 cm
FAIRWAY
by Kaisa Rissanen / @kaisa.rissanen #TAUKOfairway
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The FAIRWAY trousers feature a clean, mid-rise design with a double-button closure and side pockets, offering both functionality and style. The pattern includes two distinct leg variations: a straight-leg version for a timeless, streamlined look, and a pleated hem variation that adds a subtle, structured flair. The pattern is designed to be versatile and adaptable, allowing for a range of modifications to suit individual preferences. You can adjust the length for a cropped or full-length silhouette, modify the leg width for a more tapered or relaxed fit, or add elements like belt loops or back pockets. Depending on your choice of fabric, this pattern can easily transition between casual, professional, or more dressed-up occasions, making it a reliable wardrobe staple.
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FAIRWAY works best in woven mediumweight fabrics with no stretch, such as cotton, hemp, or twill. Consider using wool for a twist on classic trousers.
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For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Trouser fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 63.4 (70.1, 71.3, 86.3, 100) (115, 121.3, 131.2, 132.7)" / 161 (178, 181, 219, 254) (292, 308, 333, 337) cmInterfacing:
width 35.4"/90 cm, length 11.5 (11.5, 22.5, 23.7, 25.2) (27.2, 28.8, 29.6, 30.4)" / 29 (29, 57, 60, 64) (69, 73, 75, 77) cm
CHULA
by Alyssa D. Marcheleta / @paper_anchor #TAUKOchula
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CHULA is a cropped, fully lined jacket that gives the classic tweed look a cheeky reboot. Clean raglan lines meet an off‑centre front that’s perfect for showing off whatever closure you fancy – chunky statement buttons, satin ribbons, or handmade ties for a trendy twist. You can also add ribbons around the hem, neckline, and sleeves. Discreet inner pockets add function without bulk, perfect for stashing essentials while keeping the silhouette sleek. Swap tweed for bold bouclé or denim, colour‑block the raglan sleeves, and watch the jacket transform. Ditch the lining and use just the facings for a light, blouse‑style version with a crisp neckline. A clever shoulder pleat and dart sculpt the fit, keeping CHULA sharp yet easy to wear.
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Choose a medium to heavy‑weight woven fabric with a bit of drape – think wool bouclé, tweed, or suiting. For a fully lined jacket version, pair it with a smooth, fluid lining so that the jacket easily glides over other layers. If you’re hacking the design to make a blouse, opt for a light to medium‑weight fabric such as poplin, twill, or soft denim. When you use lightweight fabrics, you can fuse interfacing to your facing pieces. Select fibres that suit your lifestyle: natural fibres such as wool and cotton breathe well, age beautifully, and stand up to wear.
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For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Jacket fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 56.3 (57.9, 60.3, 74.9, 87.1) (89.4, 90.6, 93.4, 102)" / 143 (147, 153, 190, 221) (227, 230, 237, 259) cmLining:
width 55"/140 cm, length 46.1 (47.7, 52.4, 53.6, 56.3) (64.6, 65.4, 68.9, 71.3)" / 117 (121, 133, 136, 143) (164, 166, 175, 181) cmInterfacing (optional):
width 35.4"/90 cm, length 29.2 (30, 30.4, 31.2, 31.9) (33.1, 33.5, 33.9, 34.3)" / 74 (76, 77, 79, 81) (84, 85, 86, 87) cm
LOUVRE
by Liz Haywood / @lizhaywood3754
#TAUKOlouvre
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The LOUVRE beret is made from a single pattern piece cut in a low-waste tessellating arrangement. With the addition of an extra seam, you can make a zero-waste beret that is extremely economical with fabric. The pattern can also be used as a conventional pattern piece: Use it to cut a beret from oddshaped scraps, old jeans, or other old garments. Use your creativity and add a pom pom or button on top of the hat!
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This pattern is designed for woven fabrics. Choose a colour that looks nice against your face. Good fabric choices include denim, light tweeds, wool suiting, linen, and heavy cotton such as drill. Softer, more malleable fabrics such as wool will make a less angular beret.
For the lining, choose a lighter fabric such as satin, bemberg, lawn, quilting cotton, or flannelette, or use the same fabric if it’s not too thick. You can also make the beret reversible.Balanced stripes or checks are fine to use. Low-stretch knits such as sweater knits and ponte are suitable, provided the beret is lined with a woven fabric to give stability.
Unsuitable fabrics include napped fabrics such as corduroy, directional prints, and unbalanced checks/ stripes – unless you're lining the beret with its own fabric or cutting two berets.
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Sizes 52 (54, 56, 58) (60, 62, 64)
Beret fabric:
width 25.8 (26.3, 26.8, 27.2) (27.6,28.0, 28.5)" / 65.5 (66.8, 68.0, 69.1) (70.1, 71.2, 72.3) cm, length 11.9 (12.1, 12.4, 12.6) (12.8, 13, 13.2)" / 30.2 (30.8, 31.5, 32) (32.5, 33, 33.6) cmLining fabric:
width 25.8 (26.3, 26.8, 27.2) (27.6,28.0, 28.5)" / 65.5 (66.8, 68.0, 69.1) (70.1, 71.2, 72.3) cm length 11.9 (12.1, 12.4, 12.6) (12.8, 13, 13.2)" / 30.2 (30.8, 31.5, 32) (32.5, 33, 33.6) cm
DORTE
by Stefanie Kroth / @stefanie_kroth
#TAUKOdorte
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DORTE is a blouse or tunic with a draped silhouette defined by its long, attached shawl – an invitation to wrap, knot, or let it cascade freely. Elegant raglan sleeves flow gracefully with delicate slits at the cuffs for easy movement and subtle detail. Side slits at the hem of the bodice allow for a relaxed, airy fit.
As the shawl folds and shifts, glimpses of the reverse side of the fabric become part of the design, making the choice of fabric essential. Both sides should be equally beautiful, as they will be revealed in the artful drape of the piece.
A versatile garment that invites play, layering, and personal styling, this top moves with you, changing shape with a simple sweep of the shawl.
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Choose a light to medium-light woven fabric such as poplin, crêpe, satin, or any other lightweight cotton, linen, silk, viscose, or Tencel. The fabric should look good on both sides, since the inside will be visible when the shawl is hanging. As the shawl pulls the neckline to the back, the design can’t be made with heavy fabrics.
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For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Blouse fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 85.9 (86.3, 96.1, 105.2, 124.1) (128.8, 130.4, 131.9, 133.5)" / 218 (219, 244, 267, 315) (327, 331, 335, 339) cmTunic fabric:
width 55"/140 cm, length 85.9 (86.3, 124.9, 134.7, 149.3) (153.6, 156.3, 158.7, 160.7)" / 218 (219, 317, 342, 379) (390, 397, 403, 408) cm
Curated fabrics for inspiration
Experience the luxury of fabrics in Issue No.16, curated by esteemed partners such as Ecological Textiles, Art Gallery Fabrics, METERMETER and 1000stoff. Elevate your sewing with unique fabrics from these trusted independent suppliers from Europe and the USA, offering exclusive discounts. Discover a world of quality for your next project.
SPIRAL blouse & FAIRWAY trousers
Both samples are made in “Pure Solids” poplin in the colour PE438 Coral Reef (100% cotton, 3.69 oz/125 gsm) by Art Gallery Fabrics.
SPIRAL dress
The dress sample is made in “Wildflower Wovens” in the colour WWOV3012 Dots in Bluebell (100% cotton, 3.69 oz/125 gsm) by Art Gallery Fabrics.
HIUTALE dress
The 3/4-sleeve sample is made in “European Hemp Jersey in Black” (100% hemp, 9.73 oz/330 gsm) by Ecotex.
DORTE tunic
The ecru dress sample is made in Saba Sheer (56% Tencel Lyocell, 44% viscose, 3.54 oz/120 gsm) by METERMETER.
DORTE blouse
The purple blouse sample is made in a viscose twill lining (100% viscose, 3.1 oz/105 gsm) by METERMETER.
CENTREFOLD shirt
The blue sample is made using two different shades of soft stretch twill (98% Tencel Lyocell, 2% elastane, 7.08 oz/240 gsm) by 1000stoff.
CENTREFOLD shirt
The ecru sample is made in a cotton knit (100% cotton, 9.14 oz/310 gsm) by 1000stoff.
FAIRWAY trousers
The sample with leg hem pleats is made in “Wildflover Wovens” in the colour WWOV2013 Slub in Prickly Pear (100% cotton, 3.69 oz/125 gsm) by Art Gallery Fabrics.
KIRSTI skirt
The short skirt sample is made in light loden in beige (100% wool, 6.5 oz/220 gsm) by Ecotex.
CHULA jacket
The dark blue sample is made in heavy duffel (100% wool, 13.9 oz/470 gsm) by Ecotex.
CHULA jacket
The colour-block version is made in beige and ecru light loden (100% wool, 6.5 oz/220 gsm) by Ecotex.
KIRSTI skirt
The skirt is made in “Pure Solids” poplin in the colour PE572 Adrift (100% cotton, 3.69 oz/125 gsm) by Art Gallery Fabrics.
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